Ask David Sax. He’ll tell you. A gripping read (for me, anyway), Save The Deli is a well-written and informative book about deli in NYC and the US, Canada and Europe.
Ten months ago my husband and I packed up two cars, a dog and left our life in storage to drive across the country to Utah, where there is no deli. Upon reading Mr. Sax’ book I realized I’m hooked on NY Deli! Give me a hot pastrami on rye with a little brown mustard, just one perfect latke, and a couple of pickles and I’m in heaven. Not so much Dr. Brown’s soda, I usually get a Diet Coke (sorry David). Every month in TX I’d go to Katz’ for the above and it was like a little dream come true.
I didn’t grow up on NY deli, but in a very Protestant/Catholic white slice of America, western NY. The interesting part is that Manischewitz was at the end of the small street I grew up on, because I was weaned on Concord grapes. Perhaps that led me to the deli? No. I didn’t taste a pastrami sandwich until after college when I was commuting to NYC for work.
So what started this fascination with foods that had nothing to do with my culture or locale? Smoked meat. My mother was born in Montreal. We went there at least twice a year and as a child I was introduced to Ben’s, in downtown Montreal. It shrank to a shell of its yellow formica and aluminum self many years ago and went by the wayside, sadly. Given the exodus of English-speaking Quebeqois in the 70’s, my Aunt Joan would always have the aroma of smoked meat in her kitchen. After reading this book, I realize since they were in the northern environs of Toronto, it was probably from Pickle Barrel before it got big. It was always a treat and even beat out a Coffee Crisp bar, still my favorite and only “candy.” Luckily I can’t find it in the States!
I have to go to Toronto to eat smoked meat, and didn’t have any on our last visit there three years ago, OR a Coffee Crisp! I was with husband and in-laws on a whirlwind trip through the Northeast. My mother is gone now, Aunt Joan preceded her, and my last remaining Aunt can’t import smoked meat to the US so that’s that. We’ll have to go back.
* * * Oh, Mr. Sax, a year ago we had a family reunion in LA and went to Nate & Al’s for lunch. My husband said it was “nothing special” and a lot like Denny’s. If I can become a deli lover and advocate for its future, is there any hope for a country boy who drove the church bus in NE Texas? More important, is there another place to go in Salt Lake City? Urban Spoon advocates the new Kosher On The Go in Sugar House. Just read about it so will have to check it out next time I’m down the mountain. Better yet, a real deli in Park City??? I may have to arrange a visit to the new Temple Har Shalom to get that info. * * *
If you’ve never had great deli food, try to find a good one around you. Get “Save The Deli” by David Sax. Next time I’m in NYC my brother and I are going to 2nd Ave. Deli. We went to the Stage last time. Yes, we’re leaving my dear husband behind at work or the hotel. No one will call these historical treasures “like Denny’s.” Honey, there’s a hot dog cart on the corner that does not serve Kosher dogs. Drown it in yellow mustard while we eat our corned beef and pastrami sandwiches with BaaTampte or Guldens spicy….
Cooking with Dee 