Tag Archives: cassoulet

Thank You, Tiffani

No, I’m not a Food Network shill, I just happen to like Dinner at Tiffani’s because she seems real and actually has a family and friends! And she’s not on a clock cooking for judges and sabotaging competitors.

Actually any mom/cook working for their family or creating a dinner party is on the clock and has judges. Once when we kids were young we rated Mom’s dishes. BIG mistake. She was devastated by Dad’s comments, probably ours as well.

All I want to do is make the best dish I can and not get stuck in a rut of meatloaf night, pizza night (of course I make my pizza from scratch with Italian OO flour).

The sun came up before six this morning and I had to get up, put down the shades and take out the dog. Instead of looking at the debacle in Baltimore I turned to Dinner at Tiffani’s. She made peas, and also a roast reminiscent of one of my mother’s.

We always had frozen peas, unadorned. Tiffani’s peas with parmesan looked delicious. As a kid we had a “pea count.” Everyone guessed the number of peas on the pea-hater’s plate and then the pea-hater counted every one while eating all of them. The winner didn’t have to do dishes. Everyone got dessert and the pea-hater ate the peas.

My sister had surgery once and was advised to reduce the swelling by placing a bag of frozen peas on her face. She cannot eat frozen peas to this day.

For the roast, I don’t always do tri-tip, I must admit I do look for what’s on sale at a very pricey market. I use a packet of beefy onion soup mix and a can of crushed tomatoes, cover and cook for several hours, until the beef falls apart with a fork. Oh, how my husband loves that roast again in a sandwich the next day! It’s such a cheat but if he loves my pot roast, and ten-minute lasagne (on the site) so much the better.

The carrots were interesting with honey, soy and sesame. I’ve multi-colored heirloom carrots in the frig and my husband likes them raw. I scrub them and roast them whole in a bit of olive oil, salt and pepper, and thyme for about 45 minutes, turning every 15 minutes, until tender. They’re delicious. Yellow, orange, red, purple, they’re excitement on a platter. Every taste is there.

I always like to thank people for inspiration to try new things. My problem is that my husband is deathly allergic to anything that swims, and that may even include amphibians. More culinarily challenging things were done in the past like a side of salmon with scallop mousse and “scales” of half-zucchini rounds. Of course with fried parsley garnish. That was in French cooking school days.

Now I’d like to try a leg of lamb, after many years, and I would bone and butterfly and marinate and grill it a la Jacques Pepin. I’d love to try that for my husband’s family but as cattle ranchers they eschew lamb. Sorry Chef Pepin, I now have my own marinade and cooking system. I think you tried to make it foolproof for mothers. We only have a dog and I don’t cook for her, only for us.

Also I’d like to envision a new/old cassoulet for my father. I’ve seven recipes to sift through, all from the masters, and know when I made it for him years ago he said it was the best food he’d ever eaten. Chef Pepin, do you have another recipe?

Much to do, so little time….. Thanks for yours today. Cheers! Dee

 

 

 

Nonchalant

I don’t believe the dictionary, instead I believe my dog. She’s sleeping behind me, never more than two feet away, but never touching unless she wishes to do so. Her photo should be next to the word “nonchalant” except she’s pretending, otherwise she wouldn’t always stay two feet from me.

The other morning around 5:00 she aligned her spine against mine on our bed, to assure I would not move without her knowing about it. She hasn’t done that for a couple of years, but things are different with my husband away on business.

Nonchalant is definitely the word of the day. OED calm, relaxed. I might think of a lady sure of herself at Ascot, with the best hat. Sean Connery as Bond, James Bond. Or Meryl Streep in any movie.

Who doesn’t care about the maelstrom surrounding ones lives? I’ve done change all my life as a kid, at work, in life. I can’t tell you how many because you won’t believe me. I can say that most were very good changes since my birth but change does take its toll.

My word is inured, not nonchalant. I had a new school, new friends and was pulled out, even in high school. Luckily I got to spend four years at the same college. So much for nonchalance. Cheers, Dee

ps My brother and I have agreed to make even a better Cassoulet than I did for our father 25 years ago. It will be a project, lasting days or a week, to better what Dad once called the best meal of his life.

My life has been inspired, I’ve learned, loved, of course lost a great deal. I’ve never shied away, at least for 20 years, from controversy. There is so much controversy about this French dish that I lost my book, Simca’s Cuisine that kept me warm on cold winter nights on my unpaid culinary apprenticeship.

I’ve found the long-lost book, on Amazon, that is the dish to give to my father. Back then, it was my best friend as I was living in an unheated cabin on a mattress just to cook. We’ll fly in and cook, that’s the plan. D

First Time

Cooking, of course. I remember placing cookies on sheet pans but when I was eight I got the Betty Crocker Boys and Girls Cookbook I had to do something.

I was eight and my grandfather was here for the summer. Carrot curls were the order of the day and I took off the outer peel and made peels, placed them in ice water in the frig for an hour and voila!

He called them suicide carrot curls, as he did anything I made. They were curly but I bet I didn’t season them. I didn’t even remember that ’til now.

One dish I made for my father, only once in my life, was a lamb cassoulet a la Simca Beck, co-author of Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Dad told me it was the best dish he’d ever had. Dee

Dinner With the Stars

Let’s say I’ve twelve guests at the table. I and my husband am hosting. Don’t worry he didn’t cook anything, so guests are safe.

You are now thinking that I’ll actually have some celebrities on this list. Perhaps. I haven’t made it up yet. But if that’s what you’re looking for and don’t want to learn more, give up now.

I’m staying away from Greek and Roman philosophers and conversations about the Bible and since I live in the US that’s my milieu.

Let’s stick from the 1600’s on Ben Franklin. Thomas Jefferson. Abe Lincoln, of course. I’m not dealing with their dates as they’re freebies.

Winston Churchill, Eleanor Roosevelt (because of the UN), Gloria Steinem and Betty Friedan.

I still have half a huge table to fill so will add Kim Jong -un  to ask him to stand down his nuclear stance; and have mediators like George Mitchell to make that difference.

Now we need some levity to the table. Of course Kevin Spacey would be there with his brilliance. Helen Mirren for same and grace and humor and Judi Dench for a little spice and all the above characteristics.

Of course all my musical and other mentors would be here. That would make a very crowded table or a great party.

Let’s toss in artist Tara Donovon for her straws as clouds.and the sax player who plays across the street for a bit of je ne sais quois. And bring in a bagpiper as well, because I miss them on the streets. You know Shakespeare and the other dead ones won’t show up.

Add the artist in Florence. I’ve three of his watercolors double and triple-framed. He reminds me of my roots.

From Italy or down the street or flying, driving, taking a business call us to set up for you and set another place at the table. All our friends over the years have done this locally, just be in touch in advance, please.

Ah, you ask what I would make for them: cassoulet. However the event would need to be scheduled days in advance so I could purchase, prepare and “marinate” the ingredients and re-cook every day. Outside of French cooking school I’ve only made this for my father, once. It is an event and really should have a cauldron over a flame but high up off an elevator, all is only a fantasy,

My dad is older now and sometimes appreciates the “best meal he ever had” although he may have told it to other girls., perhaps my sisters. Cheers! Dee

Simone “Simca” Beck

One of the historic trio that propagated French cooking in America (a trio that included Julia Child and Louisette Bertholle), her recipes were taught to us in cooking school. I loved her lettuce timbale and chocolate cake. My favorite teacher, who went to Gourmet and after the magazine closed, where?, was Paul Grimes who used to spend summers in the south of France with Simca and neighbor Julia Child.

When I took on my one-month unpaid culinary apprenticeship in Mendocino, CA, I was working with chefs Margaret Fox and Chris Kump (son of the cooking school owner). I’d spent all my savings on cooking school and renting a car and luckily a waiter had a sublet for me for the month. It was very cold at night and my cabin had no heat, broken windows and a privy lock (hook and eye) for security. My funds were spent on $5 a day for wood for the stove that burned out around 2-3 a.m.

My solace was one book I bought at a used bookstore in Ft. Bragg for $8, Simone Beck’s “Simca’s Cuisine.” That’s what I read when it was light enough to read. Now it’s in storage but I looked it up for a reader who commented on Cassoulet (because that’s in the book) and new, it’s going for $817.19 on Amazon!

Let’s all try to make a version of cassoulet before Spring. How about it? I’m willing if you are. There’s a site that provides all the traditional ingredients online, or make up your own. As for me, Simca’s Cuisine is in storage a half a country away so I’ll have to punt. Happy cooking, Dee

Cassoulet

Yes, I’ve read the 40-minute cassoulet from Mark Bittman in the NYTimes. Perhaps I’ll try it. But if one makes everything from scratch, it is a very lengthy process, and a worthwhile endeavor.

Chowhound.com has a link to cassoulet afficionados. I made it once, 20 years ago, and my Dad loved it! And now that we have online ordering, the tarbais beans and duck fat are only a click away. Not to mention the duck confit and saussice de Toulouse.

Cassoulet is a French dish made of beans and meat in a savory broth topped with a bread crumb crust. It only gets better as it’s re-baked and the crust hardens once again, just to be broken. I wrote this simple description because it’s probably the only one that passes muster with all three French towns and other cassoulet lovers. There are many schools of cassoulet.

Twenty years ago I quit my job as a lobbyist in NYC and spent my life savings going to cooking school. Alongside our lessons, many of the dishes we prepared were written by Simone “Simca” Beck, of Mastering the Art of French Cooking fame. Our teacher worked with Simca and Julia Child during the summer months. Given a choice of a beach or the South of France, I’d choose France!

My apprenticeship of four weeks was held at Cafe Beaujolais, a beautiful small restaurant in Mendocino CA. I lived in a cabin with little light and no heat and when the little supermarket bundle of wood was done at 3:00 a.m. I froze my butt off. I was making nothing and had spent my savings on cooking school and a rental car to drive up there and had no TV or radio so my sole “just for fun” purchase was Simca’s Cuisine, from a used bookstore in Fort Bragg.

I am looking at it and its’ cassoulet recipe now. She calls for Great Northern beans, bacon, 2 ducks, hot Italian or Spanish sausage, and aromatics. She calls it “Un diner canaille pour joyeux amis.” That means an earthy dinner for high-spirited friends. She serves the cassoulet with Coquilles St. Jacques, a cold asparagus vinaigrette, a strong cheese and cherries in custard with meringue, flambee.

The entire meal sounds too heavy for me, but I may just try the cassoulet when we’re flush again. Our President spoke, stocks went up, then they revealed the bank solvency test and it went right back down again. Every day seems to be a crap shoot.

Tonight, we have roasted chicken breast, baked potatoes and a choice of vegetable. Red cabbage cole slaw (finishing that up, finally), fresh tomato in balsamico, olive oil, salt, pepper and basil. We also have a newly-made cucumber slaw from the Smoked Butts… cookbook I have on the site.

When I do try cassoulet again, I’ll check recipes and ponder my choices, taste and give you my results. The thing about especially French country cooking, this time from the area around Languedoc, is that people had this stuff made. There was no refrigeration so duck or goose legs were cooked in their own fat and kept covered completely in that fat in a crock in the pantry. Doing this culinary marathon is somewhat pointless for urban dwellers as we have to re-create everything, whether from scratch or from an online catalogue.

This entire one-sided conversation ends with me saying that we should cook local food, in season, the best produce and meats we can find. Don’t mess them up with complications. Serve your family a terrific meal. If you’re in Georgia, how can you use peaches in an entree? Texas, sweet onions, our family usually has tons of pears. Plus BEEF. Jim’s favorite. Support your local farmer, no-one else does.

The EPA wants to put a methane tax of $87.50 per beef cow. Some cows worth 1K to 1.5K are selling for $500. Losing most of their investment plus adding a tax of 20% of the sale price puts the rancher even more in the hole. ‘Nuff said. Cheers, Dee

Last Meal? No Way!!!

As I chomp on a piece of homemade pizza, from scratch, cold from the frig, I thought about my perhaps ten favorite meals.

In no order of importance, they include:

– A perfectly roasted chicken with sausage/apple/sage stuffing and mashed garlic potatoes and veg and Mom’s gravy with a beef consomme base;
– Bistecca Fiorentina aka steak Florentine made from Italian Chianina beef, with chips (french fries) that are thinly cut and fried in olive oil;
– Concord or green grapes, fresh off the vine or any fresh fruit like marionberries, blueberries, strawberries, cherries, cantaloupe warm and just brought home from the farm stand;
– a good deli platter of Nova smoked salmon, a perfect NY sesame bagel with cream cheese, capers, onion and tomato, washed down with cranberry-raspberry juice;
– My own fresh salmon filet or steak either en papilotte on a bed of braised leeks and topped with lemon and butter, or on the grill with salt and pepper, and grainy mustard on top;
-Jacque Pepin’s Lamb Robert, boned and butterflied and grilled with his signature marinade;
– Cassoulet a la “Simca” Beck;
– Scottish mussels from Loch Etive mariniere with toasts to get all the juice;
– the pear I ate 15 years ago for breakfast from a market in Florence, that my dad bought as they don’t sell ripe pears in the US; and
– my mother’s Viennese Chocolate Torte, that she made for birthdays with a nut biscuit, milk chocolate buttercream and dark chocolate glaze. That’s something I will miss as I do not have the recipe and Mom is gone now.

That’s the best I can do for 15 minutes of thinking. Think about your top ten – Dee